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The audacity of an American restaurant trying to sell pizza to Italians has been met with nothing short of outrage and such politically incorrect comparisons as selling ice to the Eskimos. Gourmands imploded and Twitter exploded.

Before I criticize, let me admit I am no culinary purist. But I am also the first to chase around Rome to find a giant turkey whose breastbone must be crushed to fit into my tiny Italian oven in late November. I admit to smuggling Kraft Macaroni and Cheese into the land of real pasta so my children can understand their American heritage.

Leaving aside for the moment the whole funny-flavored, thick chewy-crusted, dripping American-style pizza pie, the idea of anonymous online home pizza delivery is as foreign here as stuffed cheesy bread. Sure, takeout pizza in Italy is common enough. It usually entails a trip to the local pizzeria and a long conversation with the pizzaiolo while he makes the pizza, with you sipping a glass of wine while he is asking if you want the fresh tomatoes cooked or left raw and if you want buffalo or regular mozzarella.

Often you can call ahead with your order to diminish the wait, but then you miss the cordial chat with your neighbors waiting for their pizzas, too.

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Many local pizzerias will deliver pizza to local customers that are in walking distance, but generally only if you have small children, are sick or otherwise unable to come get it yourself. What he is referring to is the whole concept of food and the act of obtaining it, which is a wonderfully social occasion in Italy that I hope is never replaced by faceless home delivery and one-click ordering. In Italy, despite its many shortcomings and frustrations, personal interaction over food —whether it is a pizza or a five-course meal — is what makes Italy so wonderfully Italian.

Did you smell the wood burning in the pizza oven?